The capital of taste

This summer, Hasselt has a lot more on offer than a nip of jenever

Ever since last year's immensely popular television series De Smaak van de Keyser, which followed the lives of three generations of women in a jenever distillery in Hasselt, this little, bubbly city has been rediscovered by the Flemish.

Dubbed the Capital of Taste by city officials, Hasselt is known for its sophisticated flavours: in addition to many good restaurants and the infamously delicious jenever, it’s a fashion capital (the home of designer Stijn Helsen) and has quaint little shops, picturesque squares and numerous museums.

Seeing as most cities are going all out to lure in the crowds this summer, Hasselt could not just stand by without putting up some competition. It has, with little fanfare, put together an intricately planned programme to keep you entertained even on the rainier summer days.

Every Monday evening, carillons from the Sint-Quintinus Cathedral will chime above while you sip cold beer (or hot coffee) at one of the cosy cafes on the Grote Markt. If that sounds like taking things too easy, you can always join the roller-skating parade, which leaves the Kolonel Dusartplein at 19.00, whisking you across the city on eight wheels.

The Grote Markt really is the place to be in Hasselt this summer. It’s the spot for the uber-charming Hasselt Danst every Tuesday night. After a 30-minute lesson by a local dance group, you’ll be ready to take centre stage and boogie the night away. A different dance is taught every week, making you an all-around expert by summer’s end.

On Wednesdays nights, meanwhile, local orchestra Toeternietoe, aided by several guest musicians, lighten the mood with upbeat melodies on the Molenpoortplein. More free music awaits, this time in Kamermolenpark, with free concerts every Thursday as part of the Parkfeesten series taking place across Flanders. Upcoming shows include Yamundo, a Flemish- Dutch trio delivering sultry, jazzy beats, and Antwerp-based light pop group Mama's Jasje.

Saturdays in Hasselt are dedicated to antiques, with a wonderful little antique market on the Kolonel Dusartplein in the morning, followed by an art fair on the Groenplein (next to the tourist office) in the afternoons. Paintings, sculptures, jewellery, you name it.

Aside from glorious food and drink, Limburg provinc in general excels in pop and rock music, spitting out one great little garage band after another. We end our week, then, with the Muziekterras, live music on the Leopoldplein with an after-party at C.Bar.

But what about Friday? you may be wondering. Well, that's up to you, really – choose from the scads of other ongoing activities in Hasselt this summer. Visit, for example, the surprisingly interesting fairytale exhibit Zeg Roodkapje, waar ga je heen? (Say, Little Red Riding Hood, Where Are You Going?) in the oft-overlooked literary museum.

Also bypassed in favour of its competition in Antwerp, Hasselt’s fashion museum houses the exhibition In Her Shoes, which follows the evolution in women’s shoe design from 1900 to the present, illustrated by way of famous creations by well-known (Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik) and lesser-known designers.

What started in Ghent has now moved to Hasselt: Sunday through Thursday from 27 July to 30 August, television celebrity Marcel Vanthilt hosts his new show Villa Vanthilt from the “mobile villa” built on the Kolonel Dusartplein. Sit back and relax in the garden of his “estate” and take in the show starting at 22.00.

And let’s not forget about Rimpelrock (Wrinkle Rock) on 15 August. Clouseau, Billy Ocean, Lee Towers, Dana Winner and many more head to the Kiewit in Hasselt to show that summer music festivals are not just for the young. Thousands of 60-plussers turn out for this annual event, waving their arms in the air and hooting at the stage. It’s one of Flanders’ more surreal summer experiences, and that’s saying a lot.

Last but not least, everyone is encouraged to take part in Hasselt’s photo competition. If you've had a great time at one of the abovementioned venues, and you've got the pictures to prove it, send them in via the city’s website. Every week a winner will be awarded a gift certificate. Non-winners need not despair – by the end of the summer, all entries will be posted on Hasselt's new website.

In the Summer, in the City

In the fast-paced world of summer festivals, Antwerp plays slow, sultry and hard to get

During the summer, most people are dying to get out of the city. Heat, humidity, traffic fumes – all of that leaves us gasping for cool breezes and wide open spaces. So how come thousands of people voluntarily decide to spend their lazy days in one of the busiest cities in Belgium? (For those of you who were wondering, that would be Antwerp.) The answer is actually quite simple and consists of those three little words you long to hear: Zomer van Antwerpen. That means Summer of Antwerp, and it isn’t just a lot of hot air.

This annual festival has become an entertainment phenomenon, attracting pleasure seekers from all over Belgium, of course, but also tourists. Aside from making Antwerpenaars even more proud than they already are, it reminds the rest of the country just how quirky and dynamic this divine little city by the Scheldt really is.

Until 30 August, Antwerp’s gobs of activities lure in the very little and the terribly mature, the punk rock renegades and the culture crusaders. Every year, internationally acclaimed acts brighten up the metropolis in various wacky locations together with established and beloved landmarks. Needless to say, there’s never a dull moment.

Whereas other cities turn their summer festivals into a short but tantalizing adrenaline rush, Antwerp likes to take its time and savour every minute. This is why the multiple genres of activities have been spread over two months, giving everyone the chance to participate whenever they feel like it. There's no rush, just countless possibilities.

Besides its historical, artistic and international allure, Antwerp has remained a fairly compact city, with an eclectic mix of cultures and districts. This diversity plays an important role in the music, theatre, circus, film and parties of Zomer van Antwerpen – a means of making sure that everyone enjoys the different layers that make Antwerp so unique.

Thanks to numerous festivities situated at sometimes unknown locations, we get to know the city – and its inhabitants – a little better. While, god willing, basking in the summer sun.

Something old, something new

Sadly, Strantwerpen, the much loved beach by the Scheldt, had to make way this year for a new bar. But the bar – in a forest – may turn out to be as popular. A cosy, dream-like oasis has been built where you order up a chilly cocktail and sip it in a hammock or underneath a giant straw parasol while the kids play in the sand. The trees are filled with hundreds of lights, making the evenings by the water even more enchanting. Oh yes, this is the real-deal feel of the summer holidays.

Another annual classic could not be halted: the gorgeous sunset on the Scheldt, otherwise known as De Mooiste Show op Aarde (The Most Beautiful Show on Earth). A special grandstand has been constructed where you can sit back and relax with friends – or a more intimate companion – while watching the orange-red skies and the sun glistening in the water. Not a bad way to end a busy day, particularly when you notice the barbecue at your disposal.

A lot of Zomer van Antwerpen is free. There are concerts on squares across town with music from all over the globe, but possibly the most popular activity is the open-air cinema along the Scheldt. Bring your own chair, plop it down in front of the huge screen and soak up the atmosphere provided by the city itself.

Movie buffs, Antwerpenaars and holiday makers mingle in the sand and relish the free films (and sweets). The movies tend towards recent releases: The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, The Wrestler, I'm Not There and Milk are all on the agenda.

Antwerp is still talking about its festival of 2006, when French artist Francois Delaroziere, famed for bringing together artists, designers and engineers to create bizarre and beautiful mechanical contraptions for both stage and street theatre, stirred up a commotion with his majestic parade De Olifant en de kleine reizin (The Elephant and the Tiny Giantess). This year he's back with one of this summer's highlights: De Vierkante Molen, or The Square Carousel. This curious ride is decorated with giant buffalos, insects and huge fish heads that go up and down, round and round. Adults are climbing aboard at an equal rate to the kids.

For paid performances, it’s usually necessary to buy tickets in advance, but don’t let that turn you off. There's plenty to go around, and you've got two months. So order another cocktail and take your time.

Step right up

Circus and theatre – and some other stuff we can’t classify

This year Antwerp is graced by four different circus-like performances:

• Mijn Dorp (My Village) by Lang Toi who have made a poetic representation of everyday life in their homeland of Vietnam (photo above). Musicians, acrobats and a lot of bamboo were used to recreate a typical yet magical Vietnamese village.

• La Piste Là by Cirque Aital also features acrobats, only this time seasoned with a dash of comedy and a very unusual band. This award-winning French act is an ode to old-time circus, spiced up with a hint of 21st-century Surrealism.

• Un Horizonte Cuadrado (A Square Horizon) by Compania De Pasa, coming all the way from Chile, finds six trapeze artists seemingly going beyond the boundaries of their own physical limitations. Contained in a huge metal construction, they twirl downward aided by trance-like music and fluent motions, emphasising the difficulty in making connections in this world – and maybe even in the next.

• Finally, in Tabú by Nofitstate, you are free to wander about in a giant silver UFO while the performers skate by you and the music is pumping. This contemporary combination of circus and rock from Wales features videos, performance and startling surprises.

Though theatre-like performances aren’t keen to be outdone:

• Tussen Hond en Wolf (Between Dog and Wolf) takes you to the left bank of the Scheldt, Linkeroever, and is best described as a love story on the road (see photo, front page). Inspired by the movie Before Sunrise, it’s a bittersweet tale about the impossibility of a burning desire (in Dutch).

• If you prefer your weather hot and your theatre droll, try Altijd 'tzelfde (Always the Same) by Tristero. This long-running French hit, translated here into Dutch, won the prestigious Moliere prize in 1995 and takes place in a typical Belgian cafe. Family is the main focus in this hilarious and ohso-relatable comedy.

• A bit more intimate is U bevindt zich hier (You Are Here) by Dries Verhoeven, in which you enter a hotel room all by yourself and listen as a voice narrates a story about you and everyone else. As your story intertwines with those of others, you get to know yourself and your surroundings in a simple, comforting way (in Dutch).

Het Elfde Gebod

Basking in the shadow of Antwerp’s majestic cathedral is a cafe that combines everything we Belgians consider sacred: the Virgin Mary and beer.

Het Elfde Gebod (The Eleventh Commandment) takes the religious kitsch theme to a whole new level: it is literally filled from top to bottom with statues of saints and other holy artifacts. Hundreds of eyes gaze upon you in a place where gluttony is too easily indulged due to the wide variety of Belgian beers on offer, not to mention the incredibly tasty ribs.

The atmosphere is simply divine, quite literally, and exudes all the grandeur of a medieval fortress, aided by the robust wooden furniture and large circular chandeliers with (alas) fake candles.

The building that houses this devout pub, an oxymoron if there ever was one, actually dates back to the Middle Ages, but only the arches in the basement are original features – all that could be salvaged from a terrible fire hundreds of years ago.

In 1979, Irene and Jan opened this unique cafe, reminiscent of Antwerp’s artistic Renaissance that was predominantly inspired by Catholicism. In the presence of the most famous saints in history, you only have to keep one thing in mind: “Thou shalt enjoy” (aka the eleventh commandment).

Flanders Today July 8 2009

De Foyer

It's bold, it’s beautiful, and it’s sadly often overlooked by the non-theatre-going crowd (shame on you). De Foyer is situated on the first floor of the Bourla theatre in the heart of Antwerp and is a majestic café that still exudes all the style and elegance of the theatre’s heyday.

The Bourla itself was built in 1827 by Belgian architect Pierre Bruno Bourla and houses the renowned theatre company Het Toneelhuis. De Foyer was added in 1989 under the gorgeous dome, topped with stained glass and intricately decorated with angels, flowers and fruit. The high ceiling, tall and graceful windows with classic red velvet drapes and predominant gold touches add a very decadent and nostalgic neoclassicist atmosphere.

Due to its authentic elements and overall grandeur, emphasized by the stunning Phantom of the Opera-like crystal chandelier, it is the perfect location for a good old-fashioned afternoon tea or a delectable brunch. Feast your eyes on the glorious dessert trays. (For those of us up to the challenge, there is a highly recommended all-you-can-eat formula.)

Finally, before and after productions, De Foyer turns into a swanky hot spot where you can enjoy the culturally enhanced happy hour or even a highly intoxicating late-night cocktail while revelling in the timeless splendour of theatre now and gone by.

Flanders Today May 27 2009